Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Exploring with Eddie, Beers in Belgium, Secret Santa in Stuttgart



We have been busy travelling and hanging with wonderful visitors.  Last month, our family friend "California Eddie" came to Stuttgart on his way home from an African safari.  
Eddie, Ira's BFF since before their Bar Mitzvahs, and I at the Esslingen Christmas Market

The sunset was gorgeous!
Weihnachts pyramiede in background-energy from the candle's flames make the top spin- ITS MAGICAL!
Eddie was mesmerized by a variety of Germany innovations, like the headrest at the bar's urinal and the utensil specifically designed for eating fries.
No messy fingers when dipping fries in condiments thanks to this handy tool
The famous Mercedes Benz museum was huge and informative.
Eddie in front of the museum - Terryl Gardner would appreciate this architecture
Many old school vehicles were on display along with random cultural treats (i.e. pics of Elvis).

I liked this bus - "La Perlita" 
Eddie liked Ringo Star's old car
The Pope Mobile was a bit peculiar.
Pope Mobile
 The following week, Scott and I went on a road trip to Belgium.  We stopped in Luxembourg since it was on the way and no one ever visits poor Luxembourg.

Luxembourg City is in fact an affluent and peaceful capital.  
Fortifications built in the 10th century in the background
 We strolled along the river and explored the Castle of the Counts and "casemates," an area once considered the "best fortress in the world."

Scott's favorite Lux site- street art in the underground rail

We drove about 250 km North to the Flemish City of Ghent, located between Brussels and Bruges.  
Scoots trying to open the giant door to our old building where we stayed for 3 nights

We were advised to stay in Ghent because it's a University town and not full of tourists.  We also found a stellar deal on airbnb.com.

Many of the cathedrals (like the one above) took several hundred years to build 

Ghent is a splendid walking city with magnificent structures and neighborhoods.




The Belfort (on left) and Stadhuis (right)

View of Graslei and the 16th century guildhouses along the River Leie

Het Gravensteen was known as "Castle of the Counts."
Medieval torture instruments on display inside


Beer & frites = Bloated fat faces
View of Graslei and the 16th century guild houses along the River Leie
Step-gabled house 

We frequented De Gentenaar for a beverage and were handed a phone-book thick detailed beer list.
Smiling confuses people in Germany but not so much in Ghent
Our first beers were delightful!  Scott ordered a Kwak (8% amber ale).
 Scott's Kwak MUST be served in a special long tube like glass with a wood handle
Later, we enjoyed a memorable dinner at De Vitrine (intimate setting not ideal for pics)

After our 3 course meal, we gallivanted around the Christmas markets!

The next day, we took the train to Bruges, known as "Venice of the North."
View from the roof of the De Halve Mann Brewery  
We toured the only working brewery in the city that was established in 1856.
We learned about hops (above) and how barley malts create beer strengths and flavors
Old Skool bottling process
The brewery tour ended with a delicious Bruges Zot (Bruge lunatic), a blonde beer named after a celebration when locals welcomed Maximillian of Austria to their city.  

We also ordered the quadrupple (strong ass beer - 11% alc)

The weather was cold and wet but that didn't stop us from exploring the city and "sampling" beers when we needed to dry off.

Best Chrismakkah Horse Ever
Bruges escaped major damage during both world wars and has many well preserved medieval buildings.  There are no billboards or high rises but plenty of tourists.
The Belfry (above) was built in the 13th century
When the sun set above the canals, we enjoyed a romantical stroll along the outskirts of the City.

Thanks to my beer peddling pal, Leon, I learned about sour beers years ago and have been a fan ever since.  They were invented in Belgium and are fairly expensive in the states.  The process for making sours, also known as lambics or guezes, is unique (google it- it's fascinating).

Sour Refreshments 
Rodenbach is one of my favorites and many bars had it on tap!


Scott prefers darker beers so we purchased a variety to bring back to Germany.  A "couchsurfing" contact recommended a local beer store, Dehopduvel.  The beer store was sampling free high-gravity beer thus shopping was hilarious and plentiful.
Nissan's trunck filled to capacity with sour, stout, blonde and Trappist Belgium beers

Traditional Flemish candies, only sold in Ghent, are called "neuzekes" (little noses).  These nose-shaped treats are made with fresh fruit (raspberries & blackberries) that's melted into syrup and baked (no preservatives). 
It was our only chance to buy some neuzekes that cant be exported and must be consumed within 3 weeks.
Ghent has a legendary store that sells traditionally made Tierenteyn mustard.  It lived up to the hype; we agreed it was the most potent mustard we have ever experienced.
Our jar being filled with fresh mustardy goodness to bring home- hooray
Obviously, the mussels were delectable and the portions were huge.  I preferred the traditional white wine and garlic sauce to the curry cream.  However, the frites were not impressive (I prefer Thrashers in Ocean City, MD).
Scott's plate (above) waterzooi - classic stew  from Ghent of poached chicken and vegetables in a creamy broth 
This trip may seem non-educational, so I must share that I did become an expert on Belgium waffles!  After intense Internet research, I discovered there are 2 types of waffles in Belgium!  Brussels waffles, resembling those sold in America, are made from batter and Liege waffles are made from dough.

Our 1st waffle, ordinary Brussels version- nothing special - in fact, disappointing since it was re-heated 
Eventually, we found the glorious Liege waffle!  I was confident it was what we were searching for when I watched the waffle man smash a big ball of fresh dough, coated in pearl sugar, into the waffle maker.
  Liege waffle and espresso from a cafe called Koffie 3.14 Thee in Ghent
 Leige waffles are more dense with a caramelized sugary crust.
3rd Waffle=WINNER!- crystallized crust covered in gooey warm spiced pears, melted Belgium chocolate, and homemade whipped cream!
One of many masterpieces from the walls in our apartment in Ghent

 In conclusion, Belgium is a completely underrated Country and we hope to return! 
We drove back to Stuttgart on Xmas eve.

This year, we celebrated our first Christmas in Stuttgart, with friends at the Pyatt's festive home.
Me, Mariel, Sasha (the generous host), Kelly, and adorable German Shepard named Rorschach
Many of our Stuttgart friends are from Charleston so we shared a delicious feast with good ol' southern flavors that made it feel like home.
Ham, Mac n Cheese, Roasted Veggies, Brussel Sprouts n bacon
  Secret Santa was followed by a few rounds of Cards Against Humanity
 (H. Bomb we owe ya for sharing this gem).
Scoots holding our gifts: rubber ducky and MRE ("Meal, ready-to-eat"- from Navy pal GI Joe)

Happy New Year blog coming soon: THE UK- McCarthy wedding and London 








Tuesday, December 10, 2013

Charleston Visit and Kutcher's German Honeymoon

We recently returned from an amazing trip to Charleston, SC for a few wedding celebrations.  

As we entered the Atlanta International Airport, employees hovered along the corridors, cheerfully greeting us like southern family, "Welcome home y'all."  I don't recall ever having such an enjoyable experience in the customs area.  Perhaps, spending the past year among quiet lean Germans made me appreciate jolly meaty Americans.  South Carolina's 80 degree weather was also a welcomed change - paradise at last!

Charleston has more quality restaurants per square mile than any other city so I had to prioritize my dining experiences.  The premier outing to Xiao Bao Biscuit, a remarkable spicy "Asian soul food" spot downtown was divine!  
XXB with Lou & Hope (Koening too), Stripes and crutches theme night

Another memorable meal was at The Boathouse on IOP for at Bryan & Meg's rehearsal dinner.
Me & Jamie excited for some fresh seafood-  succulent mahi mahi, stoneground grits and green beans
We also celebrated Alicia & Brian's engagement at Megan C's stellar house downtown.
Incredibly excited for our upcoming Austrian Ski Haus Trip with Sabrina & John (above right) & "fam" Feb 2014!

Boone Hall Plantation, with it's marsh views and weeping willow trees, was an idyllic setting for Meg & Bryan's wedding day.
Gorgeous bride and her dad (many gals were gawking at this handsome man in uniform)
Tash, Me, Lou and sweet tea cocktails
Beauteous Carolina sunset on the marsh
Scoots and Frau
Friend, Leon, Megano'

The best part of visiting Charleston was seeing friends and family and their beautiful offspring.
CC Inc. and Jess's & John's creation - aka baby Walt
Holly Mataosky (Scott's cousin) with princess purse

 Christian Mataosky sporting a versatile garment like his cousin Scott


Jack Scheerer- my 2nd cousin rocking his new Euro tanktop
Royal Elizabeth Grace (daughter of Kelly & Rhino Reynolds)

I also got to spend my birthday night out in Charleston with my parents and my in-laws Sis & Skip.  A newly opened bar (to us), The Craftsmen Kitchen & Tap House was our first stop.
Ira and Skip have the palates of JV cheerleaders -slurping fruity cider beers and vodka Sprites

Later, we enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner at
Hanks.  
Scoot, Sis, and Special Seafood Tower

We also celebrated the upcoming nuptials of Tash & Mike!  We feasted on pulled pork, mac n cheese, and roasted oysters at Tuxburry Farm.  Can't wait to see the real deal wedding in England in a few weeks!!!

It was truly wonderful reuniting with close friends and family.  Special thanks to Mic, Julie, Jamie, Logan, Hope & Kenneth for letting us couch surf at your lovely homes.  Thanks Mark & Deb for hosting a pre-Thanksgiving/B-day party!  We really appreciate it!
Before flying back, we stopped for one last "only in America" meal at The Early Bird Diner. 
Honey mustard drizzled fried chicken & syrup soaked cinnamon waffles
On the way to Germany, the flight attendant seemed perplexed as she looked at our seat numbers.  When she winked at me, I wondered if she planned to move us to a spacious Emergency Exit row.  Eventually, she awkwardly approached and said, "Are you Mr. & Mrs. Shank (pause) with the special Asian-Vegetarian and Hindu Meal requests?" 
 Of course we are!  At that moment, I learned how it felt to be racially profiled.  


When we got back to Stuttgart, the Kutchers came to visit as the finale to their Euro Honeymoon.  Bryan is often adorned in colorful tapered pants and considers himself a trendsetter in Charleston so he was thrilled to shop and embrace his Germanic metrosexual roots.
Kutcher's favorite store - he claims the selection is better in Europe

We skipped Thanksgiving traditions, like boring unappetizing turkey, and had a delicious German feast then bounced to the local Christmas markets.
Meg & Bryan - Snow in foreground, Weihnachtsmarkt in the background
Scoot's bundled up in warm Peruvian hat (from Logan's travels)

The most famous xmas drink in town is Gluwein.  I have always been partial to the traditional (warm red wine sweetened with cloves and cinnamon spice) and this year discovered a white gluwein (white wine, egg nog, liquor of some sort and vanilla) that is tasty but dangerous (see next blog...).
Scoot's grumpy because:  A.) he hates gluwein  or  B.) we were taking millions of photos


Kutch ice skated with this penguin to keep him from busting his tuchus

The next day, we rode the train for about an hour to historic Heidelberg, Germany.  The famous Heidelberg Castle is a majestic ruin from the Renaissance period.  


Shloss Heidelberg was built sometime between 1294 and 1303


The Heidelberg Tun is an enormous wine vat with the capacity of 57,000,000 liters of wine.
Scoots was thirsty and didn't realize 136 oak trees were destroyed to construct this massive wine barrel

White men can jump - Me, John, Scoot, Sasha, Mariel, Kutch, Joe, Meg (left to right)
Scaffolding is soo hot right now in Germany

 On their last day, the Kutchers drove with Scoots about 4 hours south to the glacial area of Solden, Austria. 
Solden has ginormous slopes so I stayed home to protect my teeth

Ski season just commenced and they were all thrilled to snowboard in the Alps. 
Meg, Bryan, Scott

High up on the slopes, Scoots and friends discovered a huge stage with an Electronic Dance Party DJ!
Newlyweds!
Dancing dinosaurs

To see footage from this random mid- day dance party click here:
https://vimeo.com/80725843
 They drove back after a full day of "bombing" down the mountain and we had dinner at our neighborhood Portuguese joint, Beja
Grilled Prawns and Seafood Stew
We had a wonderful time with the Kutchers and look forward to their next Euro trip/visit!