Sri Lanka (Part 2)- Safari and Colombo City Life

 When we left Amba hotel, Kapali (local taxi man) drove us to Udawalawe National Park.  Udawalawe is a sanctuary for over 250 elephants who roam 119 square miles of protected grasslands surrounded by rivers and forests.  

We experienced a surreal Safari adventure in an uncovered private jeep with a "tracker." 

Scoots prepared with his safari hat and camera gear

A few kilometers into the ride, the tracker (local Sri Lankan with a keen eye) was pointing out herds of buffalo, sambal deer, jungle cats, monkeys, crocodiles, and elephants!

Elephants are classified as "mega herbivores" and consume around 300 pounds of plant matter each day!

Scoots, Me, and buffalo snoozing in the background

We were super excited to see such happy elephants!

This particular elephant reminded me of a trip to the National Zoo when my cousin Michael asked "Why does the elephant have 5 legs?"

Peacocks are native to Sri Lanka and India and at one time were considered a delicacy

After the safari, Kapali drove us to the city of Colombo.  It is located in a strategic position on the coast with a harbor frequented by ancient spice traders 2,000 years ago.  

Me & Scoots along Galle Face Green

We enjoyed Colombo even though many people advised us to "skip it" (perhaps because it is crowded and not touristy).

Scoots concerned by the random fire in the middle of the street

The Pettah Market was packed with vendors and local citizens.

Notice the giant Buddha above the building in the background - we saw hundreds of Buddah statues

Vendors from Bombay and Dehli, Indian sold spicy and salty snacks.

A snack stand with fried peas, lentils, crackers, and potato chips (purchased by Scoots)

Yummy eggplants and strange looking green vegetable

An assortment of dried fish, some with creepy fangs 

Sri Lanka has numerous rice varietals, while gluten free, they are also considered a sacred staple of Sri Lankan culture.

I bought a bag of dried red chili so I can try to recreate a few of our favorite meals

Negotiating at the market proved comical since they obviously jacked up the prices when they saw us (we did not exactly blend in) but we had fun trying to negotiate since everyone was friendly and spoke English.

Scoots bought 3 sweet bananas for less than 1$ (locals might pay 5 cents)

When we walked into a "hole in the wall" vegetarian place for lunch, the "regulars" looked surprised to see us but we were quickly seated and ordered hoppers.
 This server walked around to each table and poured different curries into bowls.

We dipped the hoppers (bundles of rice noodles) into the succulent curries. 

Delicious fried chickpea cakes, lentil cakes, and string hoppers 

I had read that everyone eats with their hands (even the president) so I eagerly embraced this utensil free meal.

Prior to our trip, Scott discovered a website called www.withlocals.com.  We arranged a "city tour" for the afternoon with a local named Humaid.

Humaid and Scott in front of the famous Old Dutch Fort

Humaid said he feels safer in Colombo since the 26 year Civil War between the Tamils and Sinhalese ended in 2009. 

Is Humaid grabbing this solider's bum?  Or perhaps a butt pat is just a friendly greeting in Sri Lanka

Humaid brought us to see famous Hindu and Buddhist temples and historic churches.

Old Anglican Church built by the British when Sri Lanka was known as "Ceylon" and colonized by England

Humaid described Sri Lanka's complex history of colonialism and brought us to Independence Square in Cinnamon Gardens.

Sri Lanka gained independence from the British in 1948.

We noticed a random boyscout statue in Viharamahadevi Park.

Scott reminiscing about his days as a Cub Scout 

The National Museum was surrounded by huge old trees.

 Ginormous tree

Humaid showed us the sites and took some photos for us like one above

Humaid took us on the train to the beaches of Mount Lavinia.  It was a wild crowded ride on an old doorless locomotive with men hanging on by one arm (photos were not clear due to crowded chaotic situation).  

Cricket is the most popular sport in Sri Lanka (thanks Brits) and we got to witness Sri Lankan's cheer on their team in the Asia World Cup Cricket Finals (Superbowl of cricket)

Mt Lavinia's trendy beach bars reminded me of Miami with techno music and people sipping cockatils

I ordered a refreshing drink called "Spicy Girl" with rum, lime, soda water, hot green chilis, and mint.  Humaid had a Sri Lankan Ginger Beer (he does not drink alcohol or eat pork).

Flash fried garlic, chili peppers, cashews and a tasty curry leaves was a superb bar app

When we said "goodbye" to Humaid, we promised to keep in touch.  He truly added wisdom and excitement to the last day of our trip.

Humaid insisted on a few "Selfies" before he departed and quickly "friended" me on Facebook

Last stop before the airport was Pilawoos for traditional Sri Lankan fast food called "kottu rotti."  The owner informed us that Anthony Bourdain dined there for this specialty.

Tired Scoots with plate of Kottu Rotti (stir fried and finely chopped roti bread, eggs, onions, peppers, and spices)

Sri Lanka 2 Year Anniversary Adventure (Part 1)

Sri Lanka is known as "the Pearl of the Indian Ocean."  I have always been intrigued by Indian culture (in fact, my 5th grade "boyfriends" Mahesh and Amit made lasting impressions).  The happy people of Sri Lanka are descendents of  India, Asia, Africa and Europe.  Thus, there is a diverse mix of Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Christians. 

View from the deck of our "Dream Cabana"

When searching TripAdvisor, I was excited to discover a place called "Pearly's Dream Cabanas" and fortunately it had great reviews (since I was ready to book from the name alone).  It was the ideal place to start our trip and experience local customs and cuisine.  

Huts in front of our cabana - Scott, Danish couple, Pearly, 2 sons (1 with pup)

Pearly lives next to the cabanas with her sons and husband Sunil.  5 star hospitality included freshly cracked coconuts from the boys, snorkeling advice from Sunil, and Pearly's negotiated prices and warnings to beware of bearded man selling drugs and "massage" on the beach.

One of the family's puppies named "Blackie" (kind of like when I named my Golden "Peaches" 

 We had a splendid view of a stellar white sand beach off our cabana's deck.Daily breakfast - "Ceylon" ginger tea, traditional Sri Lankan "hoppers" made from rice flour and fermented coconut milk, fruit, eggs, bread & jam

Every meal was fresh and delicious with some similarities to Thai and Indian.

The delicious rice dough filled with fresh coconut and honey was the best!

Pearly cooked us vegetable curries, heaping portions of brown and pink rice, and grilled fresh butterfish.  Dairy products are rarely consumed in Sri Lanka except for Buffalo Curd.  It tastes like a very sour version of yogurt and is delicious when served with mango and trickle (sweet coconut palm syrup).

Scott enjoying his curd - reminding me of Little Miss Muffett

Pearly's Dream Cabanas was near the popular tourist area called Unawatuna, located on the Southwest coast of Sri Lanka.

Man (wearing sarong) holding monkey (wearing baggy pants) and giant snake to lure money from  Russian tourists

We strolled down the beach to a snorkeling cove and enjoyed a succulent meal.

Fresh cilantro curry prawns with avocado, tomato, and chili mango salad from Wadyla Beach Bar

Pearly took us to the Ayurveda Village Garden so we could learn about a variety of medicinal plants and herbs used for healing.

Ayurveda is an ancient practice known as the "science of life" practiced by many Sri Lankans

 Ayurveda doctors use plants, herbs, spices and oils as natural therapies an treatments for toothaches, bad breath, diabetes, varicose veins, headaches, wrinkles, acne, and hair removal.

Ayurveda specialist administering the "hair removal cream" to Scott's hairy shin

Sri Lanka has 6 different species of pineapple.

Mini pineapple is poisonous to a fetus and given to women as an "abortion" method

Scott and I agreed to just buy sandalwood oil, a great face moisturizer, but were eventually convinced to purchase a bottle of hair remover cream after an impressive demonstration (below).

Hairless shin - shiny and smooth like a baby's bum

Pearly brought us to her favorite spice merchant in the village and purchased cinnamon, teas, and curry powder for us at her "local" price.

Pearly warned us that merchants and tuk tuk drivers would charge us more - which she called the "white person price"

We observed many men wearing sarongs (man skirts) and Scott asked Pearly for the best "clothing store" so he could dress comfortably like the locals.

Locals playing in the Ocean near the Galle Fort, some wearing lightweight sarongs

On our anniversary, we rode a "tuk tuk " (like a rickshaw with an engine) into the town of Galle, a fortified city built by the Portuguese in the 16th century.

Celebrating anniversary with sweet Pina Colada and local Lion Stout (8.8% ABV) in a reggae bar

Galle is a charming colonial town with an old Dutch fort and preserved lighthouse.

Scoot in newly purchased sarong, flowing in the breeze, with Galle lighthouse in the distance

Scott received frequent complements, mostly from local Sri Lankans in board shorts shouting "nice sarong mayn".

Scott and another stylish sarong wearer

We enjoyed dinner while the sunset over Galle Fort, a world heritage site.
Spicy veggie curry, lentils, and poppadom's (freshly fried rice chips) with refreshing Lion Stout

The next day, we left Pearly's and rode to Amba Ayurveda Boutique Hotel.

View from beach, kids playing cricket on left and Amba Auyurveda Hotel on far right (notice our shadows in the sand)

Blue skies, breeze, and empty beach

Man perched on stilt with a simple line- this primitive fishing style is still practiced along the rocky surf

Miles of beach for long walks,  sharks teeth hunts, and snorkeling

Sunset

Friendly dogs ran wild all over the Sri Lankan streets and beaches.  

Early one morning, we took a boat ride down the Madu Ganga River.

Fearless boat driver clutching jellyfish

The Madu has 64 islands, pristine mangrove forests, and water monitor lizards.

The sunrise was glorious and peaceful.

One island is famous for hundreds of fruit bats.

Me thinks bats are creepy, Scoots was scared of getting crapped on by the bats

We cruised by an ancient Hindu Temple and got to visit a Buddhist monastery on a private island inhabited by 4 monks.

Buddhist statue and Boddhi tree in foreground of monastery

No pictures allowed of humans with the Buddah statue

Giant squirrels scurried along tree limbs and were eager to eat snacks.

Scott sharing his over ripe banana with ginormous squirrel

We also visited a "cinnamon island."  The cinnamon man showed us tree branches for cinnamon production and weaved palm fronds for shelters.

I was almost too vain to post this picture since I look ridiculous with hideous greasy Gerry-curl hair but the cinnamon man was so cute (notice sarong) and he gave us fresh cinnamon (cinnamon sticks drying above our heads)

The Cinnamon Island had huge cashew and mango trees.

Cashews have a special place in my heart so it was fun to see how they grow in the wild

We enjoyed ocean views and scrumptious breakfasts every morning.

Scott opening a palm leaf filled with a millet coconut "pancake"

Oh how I miss the fresh tropical fruit plates packed with guava, mango, watermelon, and the sweetest bananas on earth.

I love ALL fruit except papaya (due to the horrific vomit-like odor and flavor) and I could not eat it but Scott never let it go to waste

Amba had an Ayurveda specialist on premise to explain the herbs and vegetables which were served in our daily meals (the rest of this blog is food...)

Auyrveda Doctor lady showing us the local herbs and plants

From left: spicy mangoes, coconut lime chicken, something mushy and tasty, unusual green berries like tangy peas

Pol Sambal is the greatest condiment on Earth!  A delicious blend of fresh coconut, red onion, lime juice, and red hot chills.

While this picture maybe unappetizing, I swear it was insanely delicious and I am going to try to make it soon

Flower petals were even cooked into the curry dishes!

Petals from flower had a great light texture in this bowl of curry

Massive plates of colorful rice accompanied all the meals (gluten free indeed).

Happy Scoots with spicy stir fried eggplant, chard, potatoes and green beans, and roasted fish curry

We savoured our last breakfast before our excursion to an elephant safari!

Rolled rice dough filled with fresh coconut and honey, fresh sugarcane, bananas, mangoes and watermelon

 To Be Continued...