Cousin Patrick meet up in Interlaken, Visits from the Duffaloos & Feinsteins in Deutschland!

A few weeks ago we drove to Interlaken, Switzerland to meet up my cousin Patrick from Baltimore. 

Scoots holding a Swiss Tolberone chocolate bar posing with a giant croissant (his favorite Euro breakfast staple)

Switzerland has luxurious scenic rest stops so we stopped to stretch and snap photos of the countryside.

Frau gazing at green grass - she loves grass

View from the Swiss rest stop which sells delicious cappucinos

Interlaken is a town on the Aare river which flows between two lakes.  Thus, Interlaken means "between the lakes" and is a gorgeous place to visit.

View of the lake from our campsite

Switzerland is one of the world's most expensive countries to visit so camping was a great lodging option and we got lucky with perfect weather.

Campsite reception surrounded by majestic Alpine views

Scoots snapped the photo above of Frau preparing a picnic on the lake

Our tent nestled under trees with views of the beautiful blue alpine lake

 We met my cousin and his buddy James at their hostel and walked into town where we found a pub with tasty Belgium beers.

Cheers to Patrick's first European Vacation!

We discovered a legit Mexican restaurant thanks to a recommendation for margaritas from Patrick and James' new gal friend whom they met in Florence.  

Refreshing homemade margaritas in Switzerland - Salud!

We were thrilled to eat authentic Mexican food since it has been impossible to find throughout our expat journeys in Europe.

Enchiladas and fajitas with fresh corn tortillas

The next day, Patrick, James and Scott went canyoning in frigid waters.

Canyoning crew wearing wet suits, helmets, and boots for an adventure of a lifetime

 I went canyoning many years ago when I was brave but this time decided to stay warm & dry so went for a hike while the guys jumped into the canyon.  

Pic of canyoning obtsacle where hey had to jump laterally onto a wall and slide down the rock face into whitewater

Later, Scott and I walked along the river and met the guys for dinner.

Pretty Swiss homes in the background 

 We ate creative Swiss cuisine outside surrounded by massive mountains.

Scott's entree: freshwater lake trout with plums and a droplet full of tarragon oil

Cuzin Pat taking a photo of his veal  

It was really great to see my cousin and hear about his travels all over Italy.

I can always count on Pat to visit us and attend destinaton weddings

The next day, Patrick and James went skydiving!

Pat flying(sporting a lame jersey) with snow capped mountains and gorgeous lakes in the background

Lake Brienz in the Swiss Alps

A few weeks ago, Ellen and Jason Duffy came to visit after going to Ireland for a wedding.

The newlyweds with kraut coneheads!

We strolled up the hill to our neighborhood beer garden to show them the view of Stuttgart.

Ellen, Jason, and Scott enjoying the Keller Pilsner - unfiltered beers

Ellen and I have been pals since Elementary school so its always great to get together and reminisce about the Wyngate Wildcats.

Pals since I wore a patch and Ellen collected cabbage patch dolls

Happy Shanks at our neighborhood spot

After a few beers, we went to dinner at the Goldener Adler so we could feed them authentic Schwabian cuisine.

Ellen excited to dig into her pork schnitzel and potato salad

 Jason ordered the traditional zwiebelrostbraten and spaetzel. 

Roast beef w/ onions & a side of cheesy noodles

The next day, Scott and I had to work so the Duffalloos explored Stuttgart and checked out the Landesmuseum where the learned about prehistoric times.  The next day, they took the train to see Salzburg, Austria.

 When they returned, we went to the best bakery and Italian coffee place in town.  Jason was impressed by the layering of his cortado.

Notice the Tesla in the background

During our walk back to the apartment, I pointed out the commemorative stones known as "stumbling blocks" that are on some of Stuttgart's sidewalks.  Artist Gunter Demnig designed these for individual victims who were deported and killed by the National Socialist regime.

To learn more about these go to:  http://www.goethe.de/kue/arc/dos/dos/zdk/en78940.htm

We took a quick local train to Ludwigsburg to check out a pumpkin festival.

Famous Ludwigsburg Palace- one of the largest Baroque palaces in Europe 

Ludwigsburg cCstle Garden decorated for the pumpkin fest

It was warm and sunny when we arrived at the Pumpkin Festival.

Germans love Elvis so of course there was Elvis made out of squash

Hundreds of different pumpkin species from all over the world were lined up and each had a unique name.

Goonies reminds me of Leon Beverley (who will be visiting us this week!)

This pumpkin (top of pic) is called "Lunch Lady" - not very nice

Later a storm rolled in so we got stuck in a cafe for about 3 hours while we waited for the rain to slow.  Fortunately, we had lots to discuss and plenty of beer, coffee, pumpkin seeds and pretzels as we waited for the rain to pass.

Later, we stopped by a bar that is a former garage with an AMAZING name:  Die Schankstelle!

Wall on the outside of the bar

Bar's foodtruck which was closed

Later, we walked around Stuttgart and went to the Teehaus beer garden.

Jason enjoying zip line at the beer garden's playground

Jason got excited every time he spotted a Tesla.

Jason with Tesla

Ellen and I have a lot in common when it comes to style: we straighten our hair with precision and wear mostly bold colors like grey, white and navy.  She describes our simple fashion as "plane jane' but I prefer "timeless."

Ellen and I sporting our "fashionable" grey Toms

A few days later, Aaron and Alexis arrived in Stuttgart.  I was super excited to show them around but disappointed Scott was working out of town.

Their first (and perhaps only) request was to try a pretzel so I took them to our local beer garden.

They had just visited Paris so they were happy to spend time hanging out at our place and eating in.  So we cooked an authentic Schwabian dinner with maultaschen and kasespatezel.

Alexis still thinks Aaron is so "dreamy" after 5 years of marriage ... Enjoying German meat filled ravioli, cheesy noodles, spinach and German lagers

It was interesting hearing their Peace Corps stories since they just got back from spending 2 years in a dangerous part of Costa Rica.

One day, we took a train to Esslingen which is one of a few German towns that was not demolished during the war so there is still a castle and wood timbered buildings.  

We found a steep stairwell leading to the castle

Alexis was not very excited about climbing the stairs but I knew the climb would be worth it for the view.

Me and Alexis almost to the top of the steep stairwell to the Castle

Alexis is photogenic since she consists of a high-quality Nicaraguan and Irish blend of genetics.  Aaron and I enjoyed discussing how popular she was in High School.  The 3 of us travelled down "memory lane" often sharing tales from as far back as Kindergarten.

Alexis in Esslingen with wine vineyards and houses in the background

Alexis did not enjoy the walk down the stairs and clutched the posts as elderly handicapped Germans grumbled as they passed us.

When we were little, Alexis had a thunderstorm phobia but I did not realize her fear of heights

After our hike, we stopped by a beer garden for nourishment and I advised them to try the schnitzel and flammkuchen.  

Lovebirds enjoying their authentic German breaded pork and pilsners

I feel incredibly grateful for the chance to spend time with my cousin and childhood pals in Europe.  These memories will be cherished forever.

Turkish travels with Mama Cynthia!

This past August, my mom and I travelled to Istanbul, Turkey.  We spent almost a week exploring/eating our way through different parts of Constantinople (AKA Istanbul). 

Cindy mesmerized in front of the Dolmabache Palace

While walking around the Dolmabache Palace, we smelled snacks from nearby street carts.  The fire roasted chestnuts were my favorite street eat!

Turkish street cart boys selling roasted chestnuts and corn

The views of the Bosphorus Sea were incredible from every direction.

New Mosque in the distance 

We found a spot near the sea where fisherman congregated to sell fresh caught fish.

Fresh not smelly fishes

There were plentiful options of fresh and cheap seafood so we decided to have lunch with the locals.

Mussel man sells hand opened mussels with squirts of lemon in the street

Cindy sampling a fried sardine from the fish fryer man

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Turkish man grilling up fish with fresh vegetables and spices

Daughter & mother waiting for fish at picnic table with views of Istanbul

Fresh fish off the grill was delicious.

So fresh and so clean for about $5

Gorgeous atmosphere for a peaceful lunch

Later, we walked to the New Mosque, we had to take off our shoes, cover our legs and wear scarves on our heads.

Pretty lights, stained glass and bundled up Cindy 

It was breezy as we walked under the Galata Bridge which spans the "Golden Horn."

The Golden Horn is the 7km long bay of the Bosphorus

Finding our way around the city was a bit confusing.  The Turkish people were very friendly and helpful when we asked for help with directions.

Street car and Cindy (above) who was not successful asking for directions since she tended to ask other tourists

Turkish ice cream is called dondurma and has an unusual sticky consistency so I prefer gelato.  

Ice cream men whirling around the dondurma on sticks to attract tourists

One of our favorite treats was baklava with Turkish tea. 

 This combo will energize any tired traveller.

We went to dinner at 360 for the best views in town.

Beautiful setting with a beautiful momma (and neat comfy white furniture)

The next morning, we took a ferry to Buyukada Island, one of the Princess Islands.  We planned to go there to get away from the hectic city atmosphere since Buyukada does not allow any cars.

Turkish tea boys photo bombed us as we drank tea at the local cafe

When they make coffee in Turkey, they grind the beans very fine (more than espresso) and boil it with water in a small pot and then serve it in a cup with the grounds still in it. 

Turkish coffee (left) is clearly an acquired taste,  black Turkish tea (right) is succulent

Horse drawn carriages dominated the central part of Buyukada Island so it was nice to ride bikes away from the crowds and scent of manure.  We rode for hours and hiked a steep hill to an old monastery.  The views from the top were superb but the pics were not clear.

 Istanbul is located in the "fertile crescent" so there is a glorious array of produce.

Everything in the pic is grown in Turkey except the bananas

I became obsessed with fresh figs (purply green top of pic were superior)

We left Buyukada and went back to the mainland to stay at the Premist Hotel in the Sultanahmet area.  It was a really great hotel with flavorful Turkish breakfasts, comfy beds, and super helpful staff.

We explored the famous Topkapi Palace and Museum, home to many Sultans for 400 years since the 15th Century.

Entrance to the palace 

We took a private tour with a knowledgeable man named Murat.  We paid extra to see the famous Imperial Harem or what is often called the "private pleasure palace of the Sultans." 

Cindy and Murat excited to see the Harem

There were 800 women imprisoned in the harem at one time and it was known as the "golden cage."  

Pretty tiles

We learned that the Eunichs were men brought in from Africa to be servants for the Harem women.  The Sultans had them castrated so they were "safe" to protect their concubines and wives.

More pretty Delft tiles in the Palace

The Sultans had many women kidnapped from distant lands.  These women were allowed to continue to practice different religions and traditions.

Jewish Stars in the window created for one of the Jewish Harem women in the "courtyard of concubines"

The Palace was huge and interesting so Cindy's idea to hire a tour guide really paid off.

View of the Bosphorus from the Palace

Strolling along with massive Blue Mosque in the distance

Later, we saw the Basillica Cistern, built by the Byzantine Emperor (527-565), which is known as the "Sunken Palace."  The cistern is really huge and has the capacity of 100,000 tons of water storage (it was dark so unsurprisingly the photos of the Corinthian and Doric columns did not come out).

The Basillica Cistern's Medusa heads are considered masterpieces of Roman Period sculpture art.

They say the Medusa head (above) was placed sideways so she cannot look at people and turn them into stones 

Our favorite dinner outing was to Lokanta Maya in the Karakoy area.

Cindy (walnut decorated wall in background) with Turkish wine and the most delicious bread and spicy spread

Char grilled octopus with roasted onions and herbs

Caramelized Sea bass with FIGS and bitter greens (on left)  Soft  milk cheese with roasted beets (on right)

The most memorable part of this wonderful trip was the epic food tour we went on with a local food expert named Ugur Ildiz who works for Culinary Backstreets.

The tour began at 9 am with a traditional breakfast in an alley near the Spice Market where we were served Turkish tea, achma (croissant like doughy bread) and simit ("turkish bagel" with crispy outside topped with sesame and doughy center). 

Freshly baked

In addition to breads, we had olives, spicy pepper spread, sheep cheese, goat cheese, kaymak (heavenly clotted cream from water buffalo milk) with honey, and fresh FIGS.

Kaymak is pictured above on paper birthday plate

Next we walked to the stall of Mehmet, a world famous pita maker.

Mehmet, the most common Turkish name, is equivalent to Michael in the USA

Mehmet invited me to help him bake the pita.

Natural

There was only one part of the food tour that didn't seem totally appetizing.  Ugur convinced me to try the kokorec , which is sweetbreads (lamb intestines) roasted on a spit and served on a roll with chopped up spices.   

Kokorec is supposedly a delicacy and greasy hangover treat 

As we ate our way through the back alleys of Istanbul, we observed many local customs.  Ugur explained that Muslim women usually pray outside while men go inside the mosques to pray.

Muslim women praying outside the Sehzade Mosque

Muslim men praying inside the Sehzade Mosque

Ugur took us to the Rustem Pasa Mosquehich which has gorgeous blue Delft tiles (similar to the Blue Mosque)

We really blended in with the locals at the Rustem Pasa Mosque

The next stop on the tour was a famous old candy store that dates back to the 1860s.  They sold homemade halava, made with tahini (sesame oil), sugar, and molasses.  Cindy calls it "Jewish taffy" since Ira loves it like a fat kid loves cake.

Blocks of Halava - also known as Turkish Nutella since its a popular spread and snack

This family owned candy store called Altan Sekerleme is known for the best Turkish delight in town. 

Ugur and 4th generation candy man holding a bag with our Turkish delight

Turkish delight was more delightful than I expected!  The pistachio and rose flavors are the most popular. According to Ugur, Turkish delight is best when it is 1 month old so not necessarily "fresh".  It should be chewy but not stick to your teeth.  We bought enough to share with our upcoming visitors but should have bought more.

The rose tasted like rose, the pistachio had real pistachios, but sadly there were no... shnozberries 

I was intrigued when we got to watch a man create his doner lamb kebab.  He is famous because he uniquely layers in fresh tomatoes and onions to add flavor and moisture to the lamb.  According to Urh, most kebabs in Germany and the USA are mass produced and inferior to this local doner.

Famous kebab stand in a back alley near the Grand Market

We slurped a delicious drink called Bosa which is made from fermented bulgur  It was served with roasted chickpeas and cinnamon.  It tasted like a creamy eggnog lemony applesauce with a kick. 

 This delicious drink is a popular beverage in the winter .  

It is interesting how so many cultures have special fermented foods and drinks which provide lactic acid and other healthy bacteria shown to aid digestion.

Turkish gentleman pouring the Bosa from a massive metal vat

When we walked by a cemetery, Ugur told us that headwear (turban or fez) used to be depicted on the gravestones in the older days, which reflected the occupation or religious order of that person, in turn indicating the social ranking of the bearer. 

You can always date the gravestones with fez from 1830 to 1920 because it only came in fashion for the Ottomans during that period, then was abolished due to a reform in clothing.

According to Ugur, "real" baklava is made with pistachios not walnuts. 

Turkish baklava is not mushy like other kinds since they use syrup instead of honey

We got to try a delectable treat called katmer which is a baked flaky pastry stuffed with clotted cream, pistachios, and sugar. 

Katmer (above) is usually a breakfast dish (sure beats Dunkin Donuts any day of the week)

The food tour finale was a massive lunch at a Kurdish restaurant with roast lamb, chicken with rice and currants baked in a crusty bread.  I was so full at this point that I didn't have the energy to take any pictures. The popular frothy white beverage called Aryan was served in special goblets.

Aryan is a salty yogurt drink- also an acquired taste

My favorite part of the last restaurant was the Kunefe,  a sweet and savory cheese-filled "shredded wheat" dessert that is baked in a metal dish.  Another blog describes it in detail with a recipe:
http://seasonalcookinturkey.blogspot.de/2014/08/kunefe-syrup-soaked-cheese-filled.html

Top left circular plate is KUNEFE

Istanbul is called the "crossroads of the world" because it connects the continents of Europe and Asia.  On our last day, we took a ferry to the Asian side of the city.

View of Topkai Palace from the Ferry boat

The Asian side was not seemingly very different from the European side but just had less tourists.  We strolled along the markets admiring the olives, spices, dried fruits, and random objects.

Colorful olives sold from a street market

dates, seeds, dried figs....

A Turkish tea contraption with saucers and sand which keeps the tea warm 

 I devoured fresh figs everyday which has led to a fig addiction.

Figs are full of fiber and very affordable (in Turkey)

We enjoyed a tasty vegetarian buffet at a cafe called Ciya in the Kadikoy area.  

Cindy's friend and many travel resources raved about a shop called Jennifer's Hamam as the best place to buy organic hand woven Turkish towels, scarves, and bathrobes.  We spent a lot of time at this store with the helpful salesmen.

Cindy holding a blanket with the "baklava" diamond shaped pattern

On our last day, we returned to the best baklava shop in town called Karakoy Gulluoglu (established 1820) to bring some back for Scoots and Iris.

The menu has about 50 different types of baklava - chocolate was perfect!

Another favorite called Kadayif- shredded wheat pastry with pistachio

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Our last dinner was at a tourist trap in the Sultahamet area.  According to Trip Advisor, this historic part of the city does not have optimal dining options.

Universal travel tip: pictures of food advertised on wall (above) = obvious sign that the food will not be delicious

While we were in Turkey, Scott was busy working and he travelled to Belgium for a music festival called La Triute Magique.

Festival grounds 

Scott and his buddies also visited 4 neighboring Belgium breweries: Phantom, Lupulus, Hypallology, and La Chouffe.  Belgium has approximatley 90,000 breweries!

Beer sampler from at La Chouffe headquarters

A few weeks later... 

Turkish figs are just not the same in Germany.  Perhaps they are harvested and exported before they are ripe or maybe they are more enjoyable in a warm climate.  Fortunately, I have eased my fig withdrawal symptoms with wild Italian figs from the Stuttgart open-air market.