Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Sardinia, Italy... Sunshine, Black Wine and Centenarians

I was initially intrigued by the Italian island of Sardinia because pictures reminded me of the Caribbean.  So, when I learned about the Blue Zones, I became eager to meet some of Sardinia's centenarians and experience their natural habitat.

Sardinia is 1 of only 5 Blue Zones in the entire world.  According to Dan Butner, a Blue Zone is defined as a place where there is a much higher proportion of centenarians (people living to the age of 100 and older) than on any other place on Earth.  Longevity researchers have found that people in the 5 Blue Zones share 9 distinct lifestyle similarities which correlate to adding years to their lives ("Power 9" list at the end of blog).

We planned a route to see a variety of beaches and towns in just 5 days.
The route we took all over the Northern half of Sardinia (how did we survive before GPS and google maps?)
Our direct (1.5 hour flight) landed in Olbia, Sardinia where we rented a car.  We brought our camping tent and sleeping bag since the weather was optimal and we found a campsite on the coast near the airport.  It was dark when we arrived at San Teodoro La Cinta campsite but we were so close to the beach that we could hear the waves crashing as we fell asleep.
Scott waking up (versatile garment used as a sleep mask)

We slept well and at about 9 am I wandered around the campgrounds (as Scoots packed up our tent).  As I admired the lawn and rock formations at a nearby tent, the owners, Carmine and Mario, invited me to join them for a glass of wine and some pan carasatu. 
If you look closely, you can see Mario's hairy back, red wine, and pan carasatu
I said "no grazie" to the wine and was handed a giant circle of pan carasatu (they insisted), traditional Sardinian flat bread.  It was a bit plain but I could imagine it a great accompaniment to wine and cheese.
Pane carasatu was invented for shepherds who would stay away from home for months at a time and can last for up to one year if kept dry
Beach 100 meters from where we slept in sleeping bags

Before we left camp, Scott and I walked on the beach and watched the local fisherman.


Next stop, La Caletta, a famous kite surfing beach where Scott took a lesson from Fabio, born and raised in Milano.
Scoots contemplating the wind and the surf... conditions almost perfect
I joined Scott and his new kite surfer pals for beers at the end of the day.  Scott was so excited because he had finally conquered the "steep learning curve" and graduated from novice to intermediate.
Great tans and accents all around
Later that night, we sipped local Cannanou wine.  Sardinians attribute their unusually high life expectancy to drinking this medium bodied red wine everyday. 
Crispy thin pan carasu (high in fiber and Vitamin D) and pitcher of heart healthy wine 

We ordered fresh grilled fish and homemade curly pasta in light sauce made of botargo.  Botargo, known as the Mediterranean caviar, is salted, pressed and dried fish roe (fish eggs) typically from grey mullet or tuna.  It is considered a delicacy, like truffles, and served as thin slices or flakes.
Grilled fish from the sea and Bottarga pasta

A delicious Sardinian dessert called seadas is a round cheese fritter, similar to a ravioli, stuffed with fresh soft pecorino cheese and drizzled with "corbezzolo" honey.  
Both savoy and sweet with a crunchy flaky exterior and soft cheesy inside
The next morning, we packed up drove South to Camping Cale Ginepro in the Ogliastra province.
Shanks standing by the mini tent (obviously sucking in the pasta gut)
We drove to the small port of Cala Gonone to rent a boat so we could explore the beautiful and isolated coastline.
Boat rental man teaching Scott the basics for operating this small boat
  It was surprisingly easy to rent a boat for a reasonable price with NO experience.
Captain and the skipper
Captain Scoots steering our ship around massive rocks and grottoes
Random secluded beach near caves
The private beaches were totally peaceful and some were even empty.  We needed a break from the rocking boat (weak sea stomachs) and decided to hang out on a beach and have a picnic.
Scott and our little boat that is anchored nearby

Scott dropped me off at the shore with our cooler then drove out, anchored the boat and swam to the beach.
According to a Dr Oz related website, people of Sardinia who drink this wine are 10 times more likely to live to 100. 
We brought a bottle of local Cannanou, which is known to have the highest level of polyphenols of any wine in the world.  Polyphenols are a type of antioxidant that includes resveratrol. 
Grottoes Galore!
Scoots covered up with a "sash" (thanks LB) and sailor cap to protect from sun rays
The next morning, we packed up camp and drove inland to the Barbagia region which has the worlds highest concentration of male centenarians (many hardworking goat and sheep herders). 
Frau sun worshipping in the mountainous highlands of inner Sardinia 
We stopped for caffeine at a random cafe.
I was feeling very safe on the quiet island until I noticed local cops strapped with uzis.
Due Americanos (espresso and boiling water) with fresh croissant
Then, we visited the town of Orgosolo which has famous murals (street art) depicting anti-fascist sentiment.
Many street signs were filled with bullet holes perhaps from bored cops or mafioso?
Reminds me of Atlanta
Scoots and some radical street art
Megano grinning with joy and praying Scott captures this Kodak moment (background- 3 adorable centenarians chilling)

People in all 5 Blue Zones eat a plant based diet (veggies, fruits, grains, nuts, seeds) with some fish but very little meat.  Dairy products are popular in Sardinia and primarily come from sheep and goats, which are naturally grass-fed. 
Luigi with samples of Pecorino - young soft cheese to 5 year hard aged cheese 
After sampling all of the cheese, we bought a huge wheel of a young semi-soft Pecorino, high in healthy Omega-3 fatty acids (thanks to the salad eating sheep).
The soft pecorino was tasty spread on top of fresh focaccia bread found at a local bakery
We left Orgosolo and drove to the Oristano province on the West coast to check out Is Arutas beach.
Long beach with many empty stretches of coastline
Is Arutas is known as "beach of the grains of rice" because it is made of little granite fragments resulting from erosion of the nearby Mal di Ventre Island.
White, pink, and light green pebbles and grains create a beach totally different from the sand on the East coast beaches.
After resting on the beach, we drove to a random town called Tresnurghes because I found a great deal on booking.com and after 3 nights of camping we were ready for a real shower and mattress.

Our cute B&B recommended the pizzeria next door for dinner so we hurried to get there before sunset.
Sunset view from dinner- silhouettes of a young blond couple dining nearby
The menu was fairly simple which was perfect since we were in the mood for pizza and wine.
4 items from the bottom - note "horse meat" 
We ordered 2 pizzas, one with botargo strips that was salty and delicious.
Margherita Pizza with arugula and botarga Pizza
We enjoyed a truly romantical dinner and discussed how much we love Italy. 
 Carafe of house red wine- full of antioxidants 
After dinner, we met the blond couple who was visiting from Gothenburg, Sweden.
Ben (from Sweden), Giovanni (the sweet waiter), and Scoots

The Swedes, Sandra and Ben, ordered more wine and comically attempted to explain their relationship status which was "complicated" since Europeans call each other "partners" rather than boyfriend or husband.  
Sandra Sörensen (so Scandinavian) and Megano
It was getting late (also empty besides the 4 of us) when the kitchen staff brought out platters of seafood and enjoyed a massive meal at a nearby table.
I informed the head chef that we loved the pizza and he invited me over to sample their feast!
A giant saucepan full of octopus sauteed in spicy thick red wine sauce was delectable.
Pan filled with octopus sauteed in a spicy red wine sauce that was "to die for" - who says "to die for"?

When they closed the restaurant, the waiters invited us to join them at the local bar downstairs (literally down the stairs from the place we were eating).
2 Italian stallions, 1 Swede, 1 Yinzer
Scoots, Lorenzo, Sergio, and Bruno
Chin Chin! ("cheers" in Italian)
The next morning, we devoured fresh pastries, marmalade, fruit, cheese, and cappuccinos from the deck with a marvelous view of the sea in the distance.  
Scoots reading his Popular Science (nerd) magazine by the pool

We could have relaxed at the pool all day but we were excited to see our next destination, the port village of Bosa, ranked #1 town in Italy according Fabio.
  Lonely Planet's description of Bosa sates, "washed-out pastel houses in shades of green, yellow, coral and ochre line an evocative historic centre of ancient cobbled streets, crowned by a ruined castle." 

We drove to the beach, crowded with Italian families in matching speedos.
Beach goers in Italy are well prepared with umbrellas, lounge chairs and large tables foldable tables with elaborate meals 
Scoots and a local beer (reminded me of a crappy domestic)
The beach was hot so we went back to town for a siesta.  On our way, we came across a garage with a sign that caught my eye.
Local Malvasia wine is a mature white dessert wine
I would bet money that this adorable toothless wine merchant is a centenarian

The proprietor of this "establishment" corralled us to join him in his garage/wine cellar and offered us samples from huge oak barrels.
Dingy and dusty wine dungeon

At times like these, I wish I had studied more Italian in college since this sweet fellow was rambling while giving me hugs and cups of wine.
He had a strong grip for an elderly gent- a sign of an active Blue Zone lifestyle

Before we knew it, he had sold us a bottle of the potent unlabeled white wine!
Scoots holding our "local" wine and a street pup

We were ready for an antipasti (appetizer) and had one of the most delicious snacks of the trip.
Pane carasau moistened with olive oil and topped with fresh basil, tomatoes, and shredded pecorino
We explored the outskirts of Bosa, killing time before our dinner reservation so we could eat like Italians (after 9 pm).
Frau admiring the boast along the Temo River




On our way to dinner, we spotted some plump and happy alley cats.  Sardinia is a great place to live as a human, cat or pup based on the fine culinary options.
Huge platters of spaghetti left out for the stray cats

Our last dinner in Sardinia was bittersweet as we enjoyed one last bottle of Cannanou.  It is so dark that the Italians call it "vino nero" meaning black wine.
 Antioxidants from the dark grape skins in the wine protect cell membranes and have anti-inflammatory properties
Awkward smiles (after asking waiter in broken Italian to take photo) and plates full of mussels, clams, homemade pasta and roasted vegetables
Hot ride
To my dismay, Scott rarely ever has a sweet tooth and desire to order dessert but in Italy he was a changed man and acquired a harmless gelato addiction.  Thus, we ended the night with large cups of creamy goodness.  Authentic gelato is made with fresh milk and no additives so it's superior than ice cream in flavor and nutrition.
My cup of stracciateli (chocolate chip) and pistachio (with real roasted pistachio chunks)
On our last day, we had time to drive around a few more coasts before we had to be at the airport.
Hot fresh from the oven croissant - these are so much better warm and flaky
We enjoyed one last delicious espresso from a random gas station.
Scoots slurping at gas station "cafe"  where we observed locals downing coffee with shots of Grappa


Low five

We enjoyed views from the Northern coast of Sardinia. 
The island of Corsica, France in the far distance
Beach at Santo Teres di Gallura

There were fresh fruit trucks and Formaggi (cheese) stores all over the island so we purchased a wheel of picante pecorino to bring with us back to Germany.

Most travel resources highlight the gorgeous and touristy area on Sardinia's Northeastern Coast, known as Costa Smeralda so we drove around this high-end area before heading to the airport.
Yachts and pristine landscaping surrounded us (not many campgrounds in these parts)

We are so grateful that we got to spend time in Sardinia.  It would be fun to visit the other 4 Blue Zones (located in Japan, California, Greece, and Costa Rica).    Travelling abroad has been a great opportunity to observe how different cultures value "work-life balance." and how it relates to overall wellness.  It seems possible to create your own "Blue Zone" wherever you live by focusing on the "Power 9."
The Power 9 ™ from The Blue Zones: Lessons for Living Longer From the People Who’ve Lived the Longest:

1. Keep moving
Find ways to move naturally, such as walking and gardening, using fewer laborsaving devices.


2. Find purpose
And pursue it with passion.

3. Slow down
Work less, rest, and take vacations.

4. Stop eating …
… when you're 80 percent full.

5. Dine on plants
Eat more veggies and less meat and processed foods.

6. Drink red wine
Do it consistently but in moderation.

7. Join a group
Create a healthy social network.

8. Feed your soul
Engage in spiritual activities.

9. Love your tribe - Power of love
Make family a high priority.


For more information about the Blue Zones, check out the following links:

http://www.bluezones.com/2014/04/power-9/







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