Couchsurfing & Camping along the Dutch & Danish Coasts

We just got back from an 8 day road trip to the Netherlands and Denmark (prepare for longer blog and lots of pics). 

After a relaxing night in Eindhoven (Papadopolous- best Greek food), we headed to Amsterdam to meet my childhood pal Nate and his wonderful girlfriend (& hopefully future wife) Liz.  

In Amsterdam, we parked our car and rode bikes into the city to meet at one of Nate's favorite spots, Coffee Shop 36.  After, we enjoyed a tasty meal of pancakes and Irish coffees as we listened to an unusually diverse band of street musicians.

(Adidas clad Russian mobster,  Mexican cowboy in red pantalones, Middle Eastern businessman, Canadian collegiate) 

To Nate's dismay, we learned that about 50 coffee shops in the Rembrandt district above were closing that week

Planning this road trip was a lesson in compromise since Scott was eager to spend lots of time camping and I feared it might be cold and/or rainy so we agreed on a few back up plans.  Www.couchsurfing.org is an amazing community of travelers and welcoming hosts.  After diligently analyzing profiles and corresponding with people offering "surfing" availability, I scheduled 3 reservations.  

Our 1st couchsurfing experience was a success! Kris, a Dutch women studying to get her PhD in oropharyngeal cancer, gave us a quick tour of her home and handed us a key.  It was almost too good to be true since we had a free clean room in De Pijp neighborhood, a measly 10 minute bike ride to the city center.  

Our modest room/ 1st Couchsurfing sleeping arrangement

After showering, we met up with Nate, Liz, Shauna, and Lisa (friends from MD) for a delightful dinner at Bo Cinq.

The French-Moroccan fusion cuisine was fresh and unique.

Thinly sliced organic beef fillet (from a happy Dutch cow) with caramelized pears

The next day, we drove north towards Denmark.  Rainy weather compelled us to revamp our plan and drive an extra 5 hours in search of clear blue sky.  Luckily, the autobahn offers plenty of satisfying rest stops.

Rest stop's massive salad bar in addition to hot schnitzel, wursts, and spatzle (on the other side)

After 9 hours in the car, we decided to camp on a lake in Horsens, Denmark.

Sky and overall weather was actually pleasant compared to earlier conditions

We slept well in the tent despite the chilly air and early sunrise (3:30 am).

Breakfast sampler at at local Cafe - Marmalade was pocketed and later spread on fresh bread to create a divine AlmondB&J

Next stop, Arhus, along the coast of East Jutland, Denmark.  The weather was not optimal for the beach but we went anyway.

Scoots perturbed it was too cold to go swimming

Sailing and windsurfing are popular in Denmark since there are many fjords

The Arhus couchsurfing experience was our favorite.  We stayed in an old building housing 10 people who shared 2 kitchens and bathrooms.  

Exterior of Arhus home (serial killers and thieves potentially lurking inside)

The tenants described it as a co-op where all of the expenses are shared.  It was in the heart of the city and we were warmly greeted with hugs.

Our private room in the co-op

Camilla (our lovable host), Kristian (late twenties blue eyed specimen with flowing blond hair pulled back behind his ears) and Hanna (mid thirties gal with clean blond dreadlocks adorned with homemade jewelry) invited us to join them for dinner.  Oh how I wish I took pictures but it was truly surreal and I was so captivated by the scene/ambiance in their home that I didn't want to risk ruining the vibe.  In the future, should I  introduce myself as a "travel blogger" so taking photos is less awkward?

  I can only describe the hosts as a gorgeous Scandinavian-Esq bunch of free-spirits (additionally, they all have professional careers - psychiatrist, administrator, teacher, and city planner).  As they cooked a scrumptious dinner with fresh herbs from their garden, we set the table and poured them a bottle of French wine (from our Strasbourg travels) while Keb Mo played in the background.

 Kristian was excited to share a traditional Danish meat recipe with fresh grass-fed beef he had just picked up from his parent's farm.

Oat & Beet Burgers w/ caramelized onions for a veg alternative

Fresh salad greens, peas, feta cheese, pecans...

Scott and Camilla our gracious host and world traveller

After dinner, Camilla took us to "Old Town" where we saw 11th century viking buildings. 

Historic home with a straw roof

Co-op  was environmentally friendly and well-organized (we needed this system in college)

The next day, we loaded up on treats and went on an outdoor expedition.  

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In the USA, many refer to a breakfast pastry as a "danish."  Thus, I was excited to see what the local bakeries had to offer.  Ironically, in Denmark, pastry is called Vienerbrod (meaning Austrian bread).  Regardless, they are delicious and I tried a few everyday of our trip.

Scott prefers the fruit filled center

Camilla gave us maps and directions to hiking trails and secret/free primitive camping spots.

Map and half of my #1 favorite bread (fresh dark rye with seeds filled with warm oozing dark chocolate)

We stopped at the Medieval Kalo Castle that was built by the Danish King in 1313.

castle walls 

Happy cows eating grazing by the fjord

We also went on a hike in the famous rolling hills of Mols Bjerge National Park ("Mountains of Mols").  

Stupendous views of  Ebeltoft Bay

Post hike tripod shot, possible home of Scoot's unwelcome guest (wait for it...)

After our hike, we looked for a camp site on the small island of Helgenæs.  According to Camilla, there was a place to camp near the forest and the lighthouse.  We walked in that direction and I almost stepped on a snake, an obvious sign that we should NOT camp in the forest.

Sletterhage Fyr (Lighthouse)

We found the lighthouse and continued to look for an acceptable place to pitch our tent (far from reptiles and rodents).

Camilla mentioned in an email "a cool shelter made in an old concrete pipe! its at the south tip of Helgenæs." 

Alas, we found the pipe structure and it seemed like an ideal (perhaps illegal) spot to camp as it gave us protection from the wind and a view of the ocean's coastline.

View from our campsite - aka pipe structure

View of tall ships and ferry from our campsite

Quick bike ride to the lighthouse if one needs a rest room

Denmark is so far North that the sun does not go down until after 11pm.  

Passing the time, serenading Scott on my harmonica 

Our cosy "bedroom"

Scoots did not use the lighthouse rest room

Ahhh bed time at last (around 11 30 pm)

The next morning, we took a car ferry to the island of Jutland in order to get to Copenhagen.

 The car ferry was huge and luxurious!

Leather seats, not crowded, huge buffet

During our 2 hour drive from the port to Copenhagen, Scoots discovered an creepy parasite attached to his skin.

I was instructed, "Frau, hurry and light a match to burn the tick on my arm!" 

Arm post minor surgery - blood red mark in middle is tick, surrounding specks are burnt arm hair

We drove on to our next Couchsurfing location, excited to shower and remove any tick remnants.  We met our hosts at the "yellow house" located just 10 miles from Copenhagen's city center.

Stefan and Lubyo welcomed us with a fresh pot of coffee (Danes drink more coffee than any other country - 4 cups on avg per day).  We rode bikes (3 minutes from the yellow house) to take the local train downtown.   

Copenhagen is the GREATEST biking city ever so we rode for hours and ended up at the famous (original) Tivoli Gardens and Amusement Park.

We also went to Christiania.  It is a hippie utopia and the #2 tourist attraction in the city (#1 is the Little Mermaid statue that we never found).  Sadly, I did not get any photos because according to Rick Steeves, no cameras are allowed on "pusher street".  Scott described it as "hippie heaven" - a plethora of stoned, peaceful people relaxing and listening/playing music.  The only comparison might be a music festival but on a full time scale where people live in the community year round.  If you like Amsterdam for specific herbal reasons, you would LOVE Christiania.

Poster of Christiania from bathroom of Arhus couchsurf  location

The next day, we went into Copenhagen early and enjoyed a delicious 2.5 hour all you can eat brunch at Cafe G on the first sunny morning of this summer trip.

Scoots conquered 6 plates,  smoked salmon was superb on the fresh rye

We got lost like official tourists and stumbled upon a few pretty sites.

I managed to get covered in a nasty ketchupy meatball-like substance that was stuck in my bike pedal.

YUCK!!!  Good thing clean Scoots always is prepared with hankies and wet wipes

The botanical gardens were lovely and free! 

Photographer Scoots wearing his trunks hoping for warm swimming weather

When we start our band, this can be our first album cover 

Nyvahn Street reminds me of Boston, packed with old boats and amazing seafood restaurants.

One of many city squares packed with people enjoying beers and coffee

Napping Santa Claus after one too many Carlsburg Lagers

Reading time at a bar on the canal

Later, we returned to the yellow house for a brief photo shoot with our hosts.

Danish Stefan on far Left, Lubyo from Bulgaria to the left of Scott

The next morning we took a ferry from Rodby to Puttgarden Germany.

Sun not shining, shocker

We stopped in Kiel Germany, Scott's last chance to swim in the Ostsee.  

Scoots in the cold sea

German beach resorts are unusual because instead of chairs and umbrellas, they rent contraptions with a padded bench, overhang, and foot lockers underneath.  

Hundreds of these structures littered the beach as far as the eye could see

We drove south and spent our last night in a hotel room with a real shower and  normal size mattress in the town of Hanover, Germany.

Scott and I drove next to this stellar 3 wheel vehicle at the end of our journey.

In conclusion, variety is the spice of life!  I hope we continue to couchsurf, camp, and stay at luxurious hotels for many years to come.